Friday Sep.16, 2022

👗 Shein’s American dream

Fashein haul (Cezaro De Luca/Getty Images)
Fashein haul (Cezaro De Luca/Getty Images)

Hey Snackers,

It’s “The Suite Life on Deck” IRL: a luxury cruise ship will let residents live on the sea permanently. A 237-square-foot studio starts at $1M, plus a $2.6K/person monthly "living fee.” Seasick.

Stocks were back in the red yesterday with the Dow notching its lowest close in two months. Energy prices tumbled after the US narrowly avoided a major rail strike. Despite steaming-hot ’flation, retail sales grew 0.3% last month (largely thanks to car purchases).

OOTD

Fast-fashion staple Shein plans a US expansion to deliver faster to Gen Zers (and be more like Zara)

5 fits and a pair of combat boots… Chinese shopping app Shein is expanding its US footprint as sales boom in its #1 market. The online-only retailer has thousands of trendy fits at ultralow prices (think: $10 wool pants). Shein was last valued at $100B, and in Q2 it surpassed Amazon as America’s most downloaded shopping app.

  • #Unboxed: Shein plans to open three new US distribution centers and hire 3K workers to get $5 tops to America’s teens.
  • #OOTD: Shein’s only US distributor opened in Indiana in April and is already forecast to generate $175M/year.

Not-so-fast fashion… Social media has supercharged demand for new fits to fill the feed. But for all of Shein’s popularity, its shipment times have lagged fast-fashion standards. While rivals like Zara, H&M, and Amazon can deliver in two biz days, Shein packages can take up to two weeks (they all come from Asia). While ETAs haven’t dulled Shein’s shine, delays could be getting in the way of its next big venture:

  • High prices = low patience: Last year Shein launched a higher-end clothing line called MOTF (think: $100 silk dresses), but demand is soft because shoppers are less willing to splurge and wait 10 days for that bachelorette fit.
  • Zara-fication: While Shein moves large volumes, its revenue falls short of rivals’ because its items are so low-priced. Last year Zara earned $19.5B in sales while Shein reportedly brought in $16B.

The price must be right, but so does the time… To command higher prices, Shein can’t just be a fast-fashion brand — it has to be a fast-delivering fashion brand. By setting up shop where its top customers are, it can cut down delivery times by three to four days.

Shop

Adobe agrees to buy rival Figma in its largest splurge ever, but investors aren’t loving the move

Just went Photo-shopping… picked up a multibillion-dollar startup. Adobe, the Microsoft of the creative world, agreed to buy design-software company Figma for a cool $20B — its largest acquisition by far. Figma’s cloud-based software helps engineers and designers collab on web interfaces in real time (think: a digital whiteboard). Investors weren’t impressed:

  • Adobe shares tanked nearly 17% yesterday as investors frowned at the price tag. Figma was last valued at $10B in June 2021, and Adobe is paying double to scoop it.
  • Figma is expected to generate $400M+ in revenue this year, meaning that Adobe is paying a huge forward multiple of 50X revenue for the company. FYI: multiples for top cloud companies have plunged to about 9X revenue.
  • Not helping… Adobe also issued disappointing fourth-quarter earnings guidance, though its profit jumped last quarter by 13% to $1.1B.

Doing some Acrobat(ics)… Adobe has snatched up companies, including Workfront ($1.5B) in 2020 and Frame.io ($1.3B) in 2021. Previously, its largest splurge was Marketo in 2018 ($4.7B). Now Adobe is making a purchase four times that size at a time when dealmaking has slowed big time. See: inflation, econ uncertainty, volatile markets. Adobe says Figma’s customers will expose it to a new user segment and a total addressable market of $16B.

When under threat, you might overstretch… Adobe’s splurge may be more of a need-driven move than a smart buying opportunity. Figma competes toe to toe with Adobe’s XD program. Instead of sparring with it, Adobe’s eating it. Investors worry it’s overpaying out of desperation to quash competition, and yesterday the stock had its worst day since 2010.

The Crypto Catch-Up…

🤖 Techy… The ethereum Merge succeeded, moving the chain from proof of work (energy hog) to proof of stake (efficient). The switch also means ETH holders can earn coins via staking, which incentivizes investors to scoop up ether.

🤔 Sus… South Korea issued an arrest warrant Wednesday for Do Kwon, the founder of failed stablecoin TerraUSD. The coin went to near $0 in June — wiping out $42B of investors' money — and investors accused Kwon of fraud.

🤹‍♀️ Quirky… Out with Picasso, in with the punks. NYC’s MoMA plans to sell $70M worth of paintings and sculptures to fund a digital-art gallery (picture: framed NFTs). Renoir and Rodin will compete with Bored Apes.

What else we’re Snackin’

  • Unstrike: The Biden admin brokered a tentative deal between railroad workers and owners, dodging a supply-chain nightmare. The new deal gives workers a 24% raise over five years and an extra day off.
  • Ouch: Mortgage rates jumped above 6% for the first time since the 2008 financial crisis as the Fed intensifies its ’flation-fighting mission. A year ago they were about 3%.
  • Yeikes: Kanye West (aka: Ye) said he’s terminating the contract between his trendy brand Yeezy and Gap. Ye claims Gap failed to distribute his products to store locations and to create dedicated stores.
  • BeTok: TikTok launched a BeReal copycat feature that prompts users to take spontaneous, unedited photos as Gen Z seeks to be more “real.”
  • Shellected: Shell selected its renewables chief, Wael Sawan, to serve as CEO. Shell said it wants to reduce emissions to net zero by 2050, but some say the oil titan has fallen short of its green ambitions.

Friday

  • UMich consumer-sentiment index

Authors of this Snacks own: ethereum and shares of Amazon, and Microsoft

ID: 2428647

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World out of balance: It costs the US 3¢ to make 1 penny

The cost of producing the US penny rose 13% in fiscal 2023 to 3.07 cents. Yes, that means that Uncle Sam loses more than two cents for every cent it produces. (And no, you can’t make it up on volume.)

For the record, that’s the 18th-straight year the penny’s face value has been below production costs, fueling calls for abolishing the lowest value denomination coin. Canada started to phase out the penny in 2013, joining Australia, Brazil, Finland, New Zealand, Norway, and Israel, according to Smithsonian Magazine.

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Business

Netflix is going to stop sharing subscriber numbers

After posting subscriber numbers that beat expectations today, Netflix says it’s no longer going to share those numbers starting in the first quarter of 2025. That’s a big deal since subscriber numbers have long been one of the main metrics that investors have looked at.

“In our early days, when we had little revenue or profit, membership growth was a strong indicator of our future potential,” its shareholders letter read. “But now we’re generating very substantial profit and free cash flow.” The company said that it will focus on revenue and operating margin as its main financial metrics, while it will look at time spent on the platform to gauge customer satisfaction.

Another way to read this? They’ve hit market saturation and just aren’t going to be growing that much anymore, and they thought they’d end on a good note. Going forward they’re focusing on how to get more money out of the customers they do have.

They’re doing so by cracking down on password sharing and charging for extra members. They’re also pushing people to ad tiers, which are more profitable than non-ad tiers.

“Scaling ads to become a more meaningful contributor to our business in ‘25 and beyond,” Netflix said.

Netflix’s ads membership grew another 65% in Q1 over the previous one, after rising 70% the quarter before, and 40% of signups in ad markets continue to be for those ad plans.

Tech

Meta’s not telling where it got its AI training data

Today Meta unleashed its ChatGPT competitor, Meta AI, across its apps and as a standalone. The company boasts that it is running on its latest, greatest AI model, Llama 3, which was trained on “data of the highest quality”! A dataset seven times larger than Llama2! And includes 4 times more code!

What is that training data? There the company is less loquacious.

Meta said the 15 trillion tokens on which its trained came from “publicly available sources.” Which sources? Meta told The Verge’s Alex Heath that it didn’t include Meta user data, but didn’t give much more in the way of specifics.

It did mention that it includes AI-generated data, or synthetic data: “we used Llama 2 to generate the training data for the text-quality classifiers that are powering Llama 3.” There are plenty of known issues with synthetic or AI-created data, foremost of which is that it can exacerbate existing issues with AI, because it’s liable to spit out a more concentrated version of any garbage it is ingesting.

AI companies are turning to such data because there’s not enough good, public data on the entire internet to train their increasingly greedy AI models. (Meta had reportedly floated buying a publisher like Simon & Schuster to satisfy its insatiable data needs.)

Meta, of course, isn’t the only company that’s tight-lipped about where its AI data is coming from. In a now infamous interview with WSJ’s Johanna Stern, OpenAI’s chief technology officer Mira Murati was unable to answer questions about what Sora, OpenAI’s video generating app, was trained on. YouTube? Facebook? Instagram — she said she wasn’t sure.

What is that training data? There the company is less loquacious.

Meta said the 15 trillion tokens on which its trained came from “publicly available sources.” Which sources? Meta told The Verge’s Alex Heath that it didn’t include Meta user data, but didn’t give much more in the way of specifics.

It did mention that it includes AI-generated data, or synthetic data: “we used Llama 2 to generate the training data for the text-quality classifiers that are powering Llama 3.” There are plenty of known issues with synthetic or AI-created data, foremost of which is that it can exacerbate existing issues with AI, because it’s liable to spit out a more concentrated version of any garbage it is ingesting.

AI companies are turning to such data because there’s not enough good, public data on the entire internet to train their increasingly greedy AI models. (Meta had reportedly floated buying a publisher like Simon & Schuster to satisfy its insatiable data needs.)

Meta, of course, isn’t the only company that’s tight-lipped about where its AI data is coming from. In a now infamous interview with WSJ’s Johanna Stern, OpenAI’s chief technology officer Mira Murati was unable to answer questions about what Sora, OpenAI’s video generating app, was trained on. YouTube? Facebook? Instagram — she said she wasn’t sure.

Today’s earnings: Who’s making money edition

Here are some some notable numbers out this morning, as earnings season gathers steam. Thursday’s main event will be Netflix after the close of trading. (Keep an eye on its advertising business.) But until then...

7.13%

The 30-year fixed rate mortgage is back above 7%, according to weekly numbers from the Mortgage Bankers Association, the highest level in four months. High borrowing costs are creating havoc for would-be buyers, as affordability lingers at the low levels not seen consistently since the late 1980s.

Business
Rani Molla
4/18/24

Amazon’s spy ops on rivals: shell companies, printed docs, and a fake Japanese streetwear brand

Some companies check out rivals’ websites, stores and public filings to stay abreast of the competition. Amazon made its own fake shell company and brands, transacted hundreds of thousands of dollars per year undercover on competitors’ platforms, and kept its intel operation a secret for nearly a decade even from others at Amazon, according to a fascinating investigation by the Wall Street Journal.

Working as a seller called Big River, a secret group of Amazon employees gained access to rival platforms, including Walmart, FedEx, and Alibaba. They used Big River email addresses and went to seller conferences as Big River employees. They even stayed hidden within Amazon itself. These employees would take screenshots of competitors’ systems that they would then show others at Amazon in person to avoid an email paper trail.

Perhaps most strange of all, the company created a fake Japanese streetwear brand called “Not So Ape” (clearly a play on A Bathing Ape) and continues to sell products from the brand on a Shopify store, presumably as an attempt to learn the inner workings of the shopping platform. Of course, copying is old hat for Amazon.

In meetings where they’d use this clandestine information to inform Amazon’s own business practices, the group resorted to literal paper. “[T]he team avoided distributing presentations electronically to Amazon executives. Instead, they printed the presentations and numbered the documents. Executives could look at the reports and take notes, but at the end of the meeting, team members collected the papers to ensure that they had all copies."

Working as a seller called Big River, a secret group of Amazon employees gained access to rival platforms, including Walmart, FedEx, and Alibaba. They used Big River email addresses and went to seller conferences as Big River employees. They even stayed hidden within Amazon itself. These employees would take screenshots of competitors’ systems that they would then show others at Amazon in person to avoid an email paper trail.

Perhaps most strange of all, the company created a fake Japanese streetwear brand called “Not So Ape” (clearly a play on A Bathing Ape) and continues to sell products from the brand on a Shopify store, presumably as an attempt to learn the inner workings of the shopping platform. Of course, copying is old hat for Amazon.

In meetings where they’d use this clandestine information to inform Amazon’s own business practices, the group resorted to literal paper. “[T]he team avoided distributing presentations electronically to Amazon executives. Instead, they printed the presentations and numbered the documents. Executives could look at the reports and take notes, but at the end of the meeting, team members collected the papers to ensure that they had all copies."

Crypto
Jack Morse
4/17/24

Worldcoin pivots to the blockchain… with a 'humans only' discount

Worldcoin, the “proof of personhood” crypto project launched by OpenAI’s Sam Altman, said it plans to launch its own ethereum layer-2 (L2) blockchain dubbed World Chain. The pitch: a blockchain where it’s both easier and cheaper for people to transact than bots.

Worldcoin has made waves for its iris-scanning metallic orb that promises a future where people can mathematically prove they’re real humans and not AI bots.

But it’s run into trouble: the orbs have been banned across Europe and Africa, and the associated WLD crypto token has plunged 50% over the past month.

For project insiders, who reportedly received a token allocation of 25% of supply, that could equal significant losses. 

Which is what may make World Chain attractive. Crypto exchange Coinbase launched its own L2, Base, last year. Base has since seen rapid user growth — activity that’s generated the exchange millions of dollars in weekly fees

Worldcoin could benefit from similar revenue if its L2 is adopted around the world.

But it’s run into trouble: the orbs have been banned across Europe and Africa, and the associated WLD crypto token has plunged 50% over the past month.

For project insiders, who reportedly received a token allocation of 25% of supply, that could equal significant losses. 

Which is what may make World Chain attractive. Crypto exchange Coinbase launched its own L2, Base, last year. Base has since seen rapid user growth — activity that’s generated the exchange millions of dollars in weekly fees

Worldcoin could benefit from similar revenue if its L2 is adopted around the world.