Monday Nov.07, 2022

💄 The new “lipstick effect”

Passing on the $30 lip glow (Budrul Chukrut/Getty Images)
Passing on the $30 lip glow (Budrul Chukrut/Getty Images)

Hey Snackers,

Worst. Perm. Ever. Dictionary publisher HarperCollins named "permacrisis" the word of the year. A representative said it "sums up quite succinctly just how truly awful 2022 has been." Sigh.

US stocks rose on Friday, but the S&P 500 lost nearly 3.4% for the week after the Fed announced its fourth straight rate hike of 75 basis points. J. Powell’s comments suggested that a pause isn’t in the cards anytime soon. At least we got an extra hour of sleep last night?

Ungloss

The “lipstick effect” is fading for cosmetics giants as consumers find comfort in experiential splurges

Buying a cherry-red smile… but the outlook is more matte than glossy. Beauty titans are often shielded during economic downturns thanks to the so-called lipstick effect. In gloomy times, cash-stressed consumers can’t afford big-ticket items, so they console themselves by indulging in small luxuries (think: $38 Dior Lip Glow).

  • $20 gloss > $200 hydrafacial: As the US economy shrank in the first quarter, lipstick sales jumped 48% from last year (2X as fast as other beauty products).
  • Lipstuck: But now even cosmetics giants are struggling to cover up ugly economic effects.

Losing luster… Last week Estée Lauder said its quarterly makeup sales fell 10%, and it lowered its outlook on weakening demand. Rival L’Oréal reported slowing growth as its profit-puppy luxe division (think: Prada, Lancôme) underperformed. FYI: Cover Girl owner Coty reports next week. But while consumers are cutting back on makeup, spending rose more than expected in September as Americans splurged on “experiential” indulgences.

  • Travel go-tos are booming. Airbnb reported its best quarter ever last week while Marriott joined Hilton in lifting its annual forecast. Booking’s profit more than doubled.
  • Chains including Burger King, Starbucks, and KFC and Taco Bell owner Yum Brands had robust sales growth as Americans opened their wallets for premium items like PSLs.
  • Big food staples like Kellogg, Pepsi, and Kraft have reported strong sales this season as consumers kept stocking Frosted Flakes and Cheetos despite price hikes. Booze big shots like Smirnoff maker Diageo have also proved resilient.

Consumers are in “bite or flight” mode… While the economy's in stressful fight-or-flight mode, some Americans are finding solace by indulging in brand-name treats (bites) or getaways (flights). Despite broad price hikes, a lot of consumers are still shelling out for Whoppers and Airbnb glamping weekends. We might need to kiss the lipstick effect goodbye, because the seemingly “protected” categories during this downturn appear to be experience-based.

Events

Coming up this week...

A whole new world… While streaming entertainment powered Disney through the pandemic, real-life entertainment is propelling growth now. Revenue for the first nine months of the year was up 28% as US parks and resorts recovered and is expected to be up 25% for the year (Disney reports tomorrow). With Disney+, Hulu, and ESPN+, Disney surpassed Netflix’s total subs in August but lowered its 2024 forecast for Disney+ as growth slows. If the streamer hadn’t added 9M subs last quarter, as expected, investors might be bummed despite Disney's strong overall growth.

Insert (more) coins to continue... Gaming behemoths are struggling to beat their own high scores as the pandemic video-game boom slows. In the second quarter, NBA 2K maker Take-Two Interactive and tween fave Roblox fell short of quarterly earnings expectations after reporting fewer new gamers. Meanwhile, Microsoft’s $70B purchase of Activision — which makes Call of Duty — remains stalled in a lengthy regulatory review. Analysts expect earnings to keep falling when Take-Two and Roblox report this week, but revenues are forecast to rise as in-game spending stays strong.

Zoom Out

Stories we’re watching...

“The future of Twitter”… Every Twitter thread last week. ICYMI: Elon Musk now runs Twitter (in his words: “the bird is freed”). Top execs have left the company and advertisers are skittish. After GM paused Twitter campaigns, ad giant IPG recommended its clients pause their spend too. Meanwhile, Elon seems focused on cutting costs and boosting non-ad revenue: On Friday, Twitter laid off half its employees, and over the weekend started rolling out an $8/month charge for blue check marks. There are many opinions about the Twitter-quisition, but only time will tell if it’ll help the embattled platform rise or sink.

Giving mixed signals… US employers added 261K jobs in October, and there are roughly two open jobs for every unemployed worker (a sign the Fed’s hikes aren’t cooling the economy enough). But job growth slowed and unemployment ticked up to 3.7%. Microsoft, Netflix, Snap, and Meta are laying off employees, and Amazon and (reportedly) Apple have frozen corporate hiring. Last week Lyft and Stripe also announced cuts. Non-tech industries may also slow: last week Ford offered buyouts to underperformers.

ICYMI

Last week's highlights...

  • #Phygital: Ralph Lauren and Epic Games announced a Fortnite fashion collection. The collab is both physical and digital, living in closets and in Fortnite avatars. It could help the preppy retailer gain younger fans.
  • BnBest: Airbnb is on top of the world (and can maybe rent you a yurt there). By embracing WFH trends, the rental platform posted its best quarter as consumers seek IRL experiences in an always-online world.
  • Scored: Dick’s Sporting Goods launched a $50M venture-capital fund to invest in sports-related startups. Corporate VC is booming, with companies from Google to GE to J&J building major funds.

What else we’re Snackin’

  • Gap: An NYC pay-transparency law now requires employers who hire in the city to share salary ranges for job listings. But with broad ranges being posted, it may not help close the wage gap as intended.
  • Subs: Social platforms like Facebook, Twitter, and Snap are at the mercy of advertisers' budgets, but a growing push toward subscriptions (picture: monthly fees for added features) could break Madison Avenue's grip.
  • Funged: Reddit saw $10M+ in collectible avatar sales even as the broader NFT market tanked 97% from its January peak. One possible reason: Reddit didn't mention that the polygon-based NFTs, dubbed "Snoos," were NFTs.

This Week

  • Monday: Earnings expected from Activision Blizzard, BioNTech, Take-Two Interactive, Palantir, Ryanair, Lyft, and TripAdvisor
  • Tuesday: Earnings expected from Disney, Occidental Petroleum, Constellation Energy, GlobalFoundries, Norwegian Cruise Lines, Coty, AMC, Affirm, Planet Fitness, and Sweetgreen
  • Wednesday: Earnings expected from Rivian, Coupang, Roblox, Manulife Financial, Unity Software, Starwood Property, Wendy’s, Bumble, and SeaWorld
  • Thursday: Jobless claims. Earnings expected from AstraZeneca, Nio, Toast, Ralph Lauren, Duolingo, Weibo, WeWork, Six Flags, Warby Parker, Aurora Cannabis, and Brookfield Asset Management
  • Friday: Earnings expected from Innovid

Authors of this Snacks own: matic and shares of Amazon, Take-Two Interactive, Disney, Snap, Netflix, Apple, Ford, Twitter, Microsoft, Apple, GM, Yum Brands, Aurora Cannabis, and Starbucks

ID: 2577983

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Business

The FTC vs. Big Handbag

The Federal Trade Commission has sued to block big tech, big grocery, big vacuum, and now, big… “affordable luxury handbag.”

Yesterday, the FTC sued to block Tapestry Inc’s $8.5B acquisition of Capri holdings. The agency is worried that a merger between Tapestry, which owns the Coach and Kate Spade brands, and Capri, which owns Michael Kors, would eliminate competition in the market.

The crux of the FTC's argument lies in the scope of the "accessible luxury" handbag market, where Tapestry competes with Michael Kors, with the FTC saying the following:

Where Tapestry and Capri most vigorously compete against one another – mainly between Tapestry’s Coach and Kate Spade brands against Capri’s Michael Kors brand – is in the “accessible luxury” handbag market. Today, Coach, Kate Spade and Michael Kors continuously monitor each other’s handbag brands to determine pricing and performance, and they each use that information to make strategic decisions, including whether to raise or lower handbag prices.

The deal would eliminate fierce head-to-head competition on many important attributes including on price, discounting, and design. Tens of millions of Americans that purchase Coach, Kade Spade, and Michael Kors products could face higher prices

While Capri and Tapestry are two of the largest players in this market, winning an antitrust case won't be so straightforward, as consumers have other options at similar price points, including Marc Jacobs (owned by competitor LVMH), Tory Burch, Cuyana, and Mansur.

The crux of the FTC's argument lies in the scope of the "accessible luxury" handbag market, where Tapestry competes with Michael Kors, with the FTC saying the following:

Where Tapestry and Capri most vigorously compete against one another – mainly between Tapestry’s Coach and Kate Spade brands against Capri’s Michael Kors brand – is in the “accessible luxury” handbag market. Today, Coach, Kate Spade and Michael Kors continuously monitor each other’s handbag brands to determine pricing and performance, and they each use that information to make strategic decisions, including whether to raise or lower handbag prices.

The deal would eliminate fierce head-to-head competition on many important attributes including on price, discounting, and design. Tens of millions of Americans that purchase Coach, Kade Spade, and Michael Kors products could face higher prices

While Capri and Tapestry are two of the largest players in this market, winning an antitrust case won't be so straightforward, as consumers have other options at similar price points, including Marc Jacobs (owned by competitor LVMH), Tory Burch, Cuyana, and Mansur.

Tesla had a good ride, but the stock’s price destruction is historic

Few people have created as much value as Elon Musk. The iconoclastic entrepreneur took Tesla from a market capitalization of roughly $2 billion at the time of its IPO in 2010 to $1.2 trillion in early 2023. That’s a return of about 55,000%. Musk made a lot of people a lot of money.

On the other hand, Tesla shares are down nearly 60% since their all-time peak. The company has ceded ground in EVs, prompting a series of profit crushing price cuts to preserve market share. The cumulative loss in market value over that period is pushing $800 billion. Few corporate executives have presided over such a degree of value destruction.

And it could get worse, as people are bracing for an ugly update when Tesla reports after the close Tuesday.

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Tech

Smaller AI models are in

Tech companies that have long touted the enormity of their AI models are now saying size doesn’t always matter.

Microsoft is the latest tech company to introduce smaller AI models, as part of its Phi-3 tech family. Last week Meta released two smaller models of its AI Llama 3 and earlier this year Alphabet did the same. All are open sourcing these models to encourage wider adoption.

Microsoft says its smallest model, which can fit on a smartphone and wouldn’t need to be connected to the internet to work, is nearly as good as OpenAI’s GPT-3.5. A Microsoft exec suggested this less expensive model could be a good fit for online advertisers, if not doctors.

Microsoft says its smallest model, which can fit on a smartphone and wouldn’t need to be connected to the internet to work, is nearly as good as OpenAI’s GPT-3.5. A Microsoft exec suggested this less expensive model could be a good fit for online advertisers, if not doctors.

$127

The average bitcoin-transaction fee hit an all-time high of $127 on Friday.

The temporary spike came as the halving cut miner rewards and traders forked over huge sums of BTC (skewing the average) to be included in the first post-halving block.

Adding fuel to the fee fire was the launch of Runes, a new protocol that lets developers create memecoins on top of the bitcoin blockchain. The debut was so popular that fees popped as traders fought for limited block space.

2024-04-22-1-america-importing-less-from-china

The US now buys more goods from Mexico than from China

Chinese imports are down as companies begin to "nearshore" in Mexico

2024-04-22-paramount-global-site

Multiple bidders want to buy Paramount Global’s sprawling media assets

Junk

How much of the world’s plastic is recycled? Only a fraction

Landfills still account for the majority of plastic disposal

Markets

Stock market gains for 2024 cut by more than half

All of the sudden, the stock market seems to be running out of steam.

There’s no big mystery here. War in the Mideast has pushed up oil prices, which will help keep inflation elevated. And annoyingly high price increases in March have already pushed the June Fed rate cuts the market was banking on farther into the uncertain future.

All that’s added up to higher interest rates and lower stock prices.